Creative Cures: A Look into the Innovative World of Hemp

Does the word hemp sound familiar to you? Do you lump it together with terms like cannabis, CBD, THC, and other terminology? While these substances come from the same plant, the difference in use and result can be drastic.

But one thing stands for sure; hemp signifies the future for many industries, ranging from fashion, beauty, health, and even the food and beverage sector. Though a strain of Cannabis Sativa, hemp’s primary uses are those other than feelings of euphoria, often associated with cannabis. In 2021 alone, hemp remains one of the fastest-growing plants on Earth. Further, the hemp-derived CBD market may reach an expected $7 billion by 2023. 

A Big Future Ahead 

Another point of confusion may be CBD oil versus Hemp seed oil. Do both seem to do the same thing? In actuality, CBD’s extraction point is the flowers, leaves, and stalks of hemp/cannabis. Hemp seed oil is extracted from the seeds of the Cannabis Sativa plant, typically grown for industrial purposes. The oil contains no THC (you know, the active ingredient in cannabis that gives you the transcendence of mind?) CBD’s primary anti-inflammation properties are often utilized for pain management to help relieve physical issues. In the beauty space, the same anti-inflammatory properties and richness in antioxidants promote skin health claims as anti-aging and skin-soothing/calming. Further, hemp seed oil remains a deeply moisturizing emollient—promoting healthy skin. 

Taboo No Longer 

Though rooted in history as a taboo topic, attitudes and laws are changing surrounding cannabis. As a result, cannabis has greater exposure in the media we consume, ranging from TV shows (Grace and Frankie, anyone?) to social media, and even fashion. 

Cannabis, as a whole, is moving away from the stereotypical stoner attitude into a more sophisticated market. This market includes highly educated consumers looking to improve health and wellbeing through new methods. 

And the rest of the world is catching on too.

In LA, restaurants now offer Terpenes-infused cocktails—one of the newest food and beverage industry trends. But besides alcoholic drinks, sparkling water options, like Recess sparkling water (infused with hemp and adaptogens, peach ginger, hibiscus, and blackberry chai) are all on the market. Even phenomena such as Cannabis Feminism believe that more women continue to become industry leaders due to decriminalization, digital connectivity, and the rise of the female stoner portrayal in mainstream media.

In architecture, cannabis, specifically hemp, is finding a greater use. In the United Kingdom, The Zero-carbon Flat House uses hemp grown from a Cambridgeshire farm. In addition to being turned into construction materials, hemp sequesters carbon emissions, too. 

Fashion, too, embraces hemp. In a recent season of Making the Cut, the fashion competition show hosted by former Project Runway experts Heidi Klum and Tim Gunn, contestant Ally Ferguson incorporated hemp in her creations. The LA-based Ferguson helms her label Seeker, focusing on gender and age-inclusive, sustainable, and hemp-based clothing. 

For more corporations and even start-ups, cannabis-infused solutions for beauty care, home care, and pets stand at the forefront of the newest innovations. Using hemp seed oil in body washes, candles, beverages, pet products, and more imbibe everyday actions with wellness. Though hemp has existed for centuries (with initial cultivation roots in China over 6,000 years ago), this pocket of the health industry continues to evolve and grow. 

With so many new and original uses of cannabis, especially hemp, in our world today, the future of this industry moves into exciting territory. So, what do you think the subsequent significant use of hemp will be? Let us know in the comments!

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Indonesian Patchouli: The Silent Fragrance Star

Moldy, muddy, damp, and something you would rather connect with a dark window-less basement. Would you expect one of the most popular fragrance ingredients behind this description? The source of this scent looks quite bland. Patchouli – a low-growing leafy green plant, delivers one of the most popular fragrance ingredients. It also comes with a compelling story of how it contributes to your favorite scent. Let’s look at how Indonesian farmers cultivate this fragrance ingredient and how perfumers create lovely scents with it. 

Samsir cuts the patchouli plant a few centimeters above the dry earth using a small pair of garden shears. The sun burns hot on the hilly field deep in the jungle, far from any villages in the Sulawesi region of Indonesia. One can access the area only by steep, bumpy roads, making an all-terrain vehicle essential. The 47-year-old cultivates three hectares of patchouli and lays the snipped plants out to dry on tarps. Then, a short while later, he cuts the plants he grew earlier into ten-centimeter pieces using a long knife that he fashioned out of a sharpened piece of metal taken from a car. This process ensures that more valuable oil remains inside the plants if cut after dried.

The farmer then carries the tightly stuffed sacks to a crude field distillation unit located on the pothole-littered road some 200 meters away. An employee has lit a fire under the large container, and the water is already boiling. “Once it begins to steam, we fill the still with dried patchouli herbage,” says Samir, explaining the process. Within seconds, the air fills with the intense fragrance of the perfume oil, carried by the steam. It cools slowly inside a pipe while the oil separates from the water flowing into a pail. The farmer can extract around 0.6 kilograms from 30 kilograms of dried herbage.

One of more than 500,000 farmers, Samsir cultivates patchouli alongside corn, soy, cocoa, cashews, and coconuts. The plant forms an integral part of their livelihood. Even if many generate no more than four or five liters of the precious oil per week. It accounts for a significant income due to its high value.

A Long-Standing History

For many scent-enthusiasts, the story above often remains hidden. So often, we, as consumers, know little about the products we use and how they come into our lives.

Patchouli occupies an iconic position in the perfume industry. The emblematic aroma –often described as intense, spicy, earthy (used widely in chypre and oriental fragrances) adds depth and sensuality. Finding its way into nearly all aromatic products, from fine fragrances to shower gels and detergents, the precious oil ranks in the top 10 natural raw materials for fragrances.

Patchouli entered a more mainstream awareness during the ’60s counter-culture movement, where the extract appealed as a natural deodorant, strong enough to mask the smell of alcohol and marijuana.

At the same time, the ingredient holds a long-standing history as a trending ingredient in men’s and women’s fragrances. For example, the classic Monsieur Givenchy, created in 1959, acts as the first widely distributed fragrance for men by Givenchy and a new vision of masculinity. For women, how can we forget the iconic Aromatics Elixir by Clinique? As the oldest perfume from the house of Clinique, circa 1975, the notes comprise verbena, sage, chamomile, and patchouli as the base. After its Reintroduction in 2007, the current bottle features a retro atomizer, adding the perfect nostalgic flair.

And today, we can find patchouli everywhere, from Tom Ford White Patchouli,  Maison Margiela Music Festival, to Jo Malone English Pear & Freesia. This adds to the reasons why to note the ingredient’s history and current consumption.

A Sustainable Future?

Often produced in remote locations in Indonesia, farmers still lack the proper techniques to cultivate this crop safely. While Symrise partners with local suppliers to bring sustainable practices to the area, consumers and companies need to learn more about this desirable ingredient. For example, new practices promote sustainable farming on Sulawesi Island in Indonesia (where 80% of patchouli remains harvested). In addition, by funding energy-efficient distillation units, carbon emissions decrease, and forests stay protected.

Additionally, the operators of the energy-efficient distillation units provide technical support, along with the farmers, who now own the skills to farm in a more environmentally friendly way. While nearly all of the world’s patchouli comes from one area, there remains a bright spot – more opportunities to enhance relationships with producers to cultivate patchouli more efficiently and safely. Patchouli denotes the scent of the moment. So what products do you want to see patchouli make its way into next?

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